Who Gets to Claim the Moroccan Caftan?

Fashion12 November 2026
AuthorMeryem Chagraoui
PhotosVogue Runway
Fashion isn’t just a new bag or the newest micro-trend on your feed, it’s a literal way of living.
F
ashion represents the icons, aesthetics, and historical customs that have survived for ages. It’s the core root of a nation’s logic when choosing their Fit of the Day (FOTD), whether that’s a casual caftan or a high-glam, fancy Hdur kaftan for big events. This is where fashion meets history, rooted in an iconic identity that stands out through the unique character and distinction of its people.
Moroccans, Turks, Tatars, and Persians shared a massive, interconnected civilisation through time. Throughout history, these nations faced colonial presence, military invasions, and academic erasure, where their books were burned, monuments and scientists were stolen, and their original fashion was adapted by outsiders. Colonial powers, including France and Spain, initially mocked and sought to diminish Moroccan customs and ancestral attire. Yet today, that same Moroccan caftan has overcome historical erasure to become the most wearable, iconic exotic garment in the world, a true masterclass in cultural survival.
While countries with shared historical ties — whether Morocco, Turkey, Albania, Azerbaijan, or Persia, all take a slice of a garment called the kaftan (which translates simply to "the dress"), the Moroccan caftan is not Turkish, Albanian, or anything else.
The most visible and well-preserved traditions remain the Turkish and Moroccan caftans, both keeping their historical codes alive beyond time. The Turkish caftan maintained its footprint as the Ottoman Empire expanded across nearby regions, leaving its style intact after independence. Meanwhile, the Moroccan caftan holds an untouchable, main-character status historically. In December 2025, the Moroccan caftan was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognising the craftsmanship, knowledge and traditions passed down through generations.
Living Heritage, Pride, & The Moroccan Touch
In Morocco, fashion is a powerful mix of identity and custom heritage that they wear with deep, unyielding pride. Today, external nations try to claim and adopt the Moroccan touch of the caftan, underestimating that the garment’s true soul lies far beyond a piece of fabric. The distinct sfifa and a3qad tailoring, the precise hand-stitched embroidery, the specific way you wear it, and the ceremonial occasion it is worn for are unmistakably Moroccan. It is a living heritage rooted in the soul of its artisans and people , something that can never be replicated or appropriated from the outside.
Layering in Moroccan Menswear: Base, Structure, & Elegance
Preserving a statement garment requires its people to keep wearing it, elevating it until it achieves mainstream, global popularity the way Morocco has. By maintaining living traditions and building modern trends alongside timeless heritage, Morocco safeguards ancestral craftsmanship, artisan knowledge, and community pride across generations. This prevents historical erasure and turns traditional tailoring into the ultimate flex of national identity and cultural sovereignty.
While regional variations thrive across North, East, and South Morocco, traditional Moroccan menswear relies on a structural, non-negotiable logic of layering. In classical Moroccan men’s attire, layering is not optional—it is essential to completing the silhouette's dignity, prestige, and functionality. Men start with foundational layers like the Sadria (a fitted, tailored vest), worn over the Kandrisi trousers or a fine inner tunic. The ensemble is elevated with a Jabador (a tailored two-piece set featuring precise sfifa embroidery) or a fluid Gandoura.
Over these base layers comes the hooded wool Djellaba, and for ultimate ceremonial authority, the outfit is topped with the flowing Selham (or Burnous) cape. This complex art of male layering—blending thermal utility with refined elegance—has existed for centuries, proving that structural menswear was engineered long before modern global runways embraced it as a concept.
The Rifian Legacy & Iconic Menswear
Within this rich heritage, the Rifian style, near Melilla, Ceuta, and Al Hoceima, holds a unique legacy deeply tied to political identity and resistance against the Spanish invasion.
In the Rif, fashion was a statement where blood mixed with design. Choosing your attire was choosing your identity. Spanish modernity was not an option; the Rifian way was non-negotiable. The fashion of its leaders, followers, and anti-colonial resistance served as a loud, unapologetic statement of identity against foreign takeover.
Abdelkrim El-Khattabi established an untouchable, signature aesthetic of traditional outerwear that was entirely distinct from a caftan. He famously wore powerful traditional garments such as the Azdjab / Tajarodečt among the Rifians or the heavy wool Jellaba bwardya among the Jbala, worn with its hood draped half over the shoulder to create an iconic historical, political, and stylistic silhouette. This authoritative look was completed with authentic Rifian accessories like the Aza3bod / Aqrab rifain—a deep embroidered leather bag instantly recognizable by its typical long fringes. Furthermore, Rifian men’s fashion mastered a powerful neutral palette of white, brown, and more white, reflecting the natural terrain of the Rif landscape while remaining deeply rooted in structural layering.
"Dressing is a way of life. It brings you joy. It can give you freedom and liberation, help you to find yourself and to move without restraint."
At its core, fashion is a living way of being rather than a fleeting seasonal trend. It embodies the historic icons, customs, and living memory that define a nation’s logic of dress and cultural survival through time.


