Law Roach reflected on Bob Mackie's recent passing and the devastation it left upon the fashion industry in an Emmy Awards interview. Roach spoke about the bond that he shared with Mackie and publicly suggested a Met Gala in his honour. He touched on how discovering that he was Mackie's favourite stylist led to a five-hour sit-down chat, and that Mackie saw a reflection of himself and Cher in Law Roach and Zendaya’s relationship.
With the previously announced 2027 Costume Institute exhibition now cancelled, the Met has confirmed that details of a new spring exhibition and the 2027 Gala will be announced at a later date. So, is Roach's suggestion just a coincidence?
When The Designer Becomes The Theme
The Met has shown us many times that a designer can provide the basis for an entire theme and is no stranger to honouring the legendary. We have previously seen a celebration of Alexander McQueen in 2011 with Savage Beauty. This honoured his life, career, artistry, and cultural impact. More recently, in 2023, the Met examined Karl Lagerfeld's 65-year career across multiple houses and eras. The dress code was “In Honour of Karl.”
Bob Mackie's legacy stretches further than fashion into Hollywood, television, and Broadway. His pieces weren’t designed for the runway but for the stage, the screen, and public imagination. This is an extraordinary legacy that warrants honour.
The Journey Of Bob Mackie
Bob Mackie's love for fashion and the costume industry began very early in his childhood after being captivated by what he saw in movie theatres. He was inspired by flamboyantly dressed ladies of the time like Betty Grable and would sketch gowns for his favourite actresses, longing to work in showbiz.
After graduating from high school, Mackie went on to study advertising and illustration at Pasadena City College for only a short period of time. He soon won a scholarship at Chouinard Art Institute for costume design and illustration, where his journey really began. In his first and only year at Chouinard, Mackie was selected to sketch and design a custom dress for Hollywood bombshell Jayne Mansfield for the school's prestigious annual Artists Ball. This fed his hunger for the industry, and with a portfolio that now boasted a star, Mackie felt the time was right to move on from the classroom.
He began an apprenticeship in 1961 at Paramount and worked as a sketch artist. His job was to translate the verbal concepts of masters like Edith Head and Jean Louis into physical art as a ‘ghost designer’, receiving no recognition. He helped create some of the most recognisable images in American culture, working behind the scenes, until he was later promoted to assistant designer by Ray Aghayan for The Judy Garland Show. This was the beginning of a 50-year partnership between Mackie and Aghayan, and the beginning of Mackie no longer being a background artist.
The Judy Garland Show ran until 1964, so Mackie spent the years after networking, bouncing between sets, building connections, and assisting productions. His official breakthrough year followed shortly after in 1966, when he won the first Emmy Award presented for costume design and designed for Mitzi Gaynor’s Las Vegas Revue.
His TV streak continued with other stars and The Carol Burnett Show, leading to his meet-cute with Cher. From 1968, Mackie was dressing her for public appearances and went on to design for her show in 1971 with Sonny. The pair formed an unbreakable bond as Mackie shaped Cher's identity, becoming known for ‘the midriff explosion’ and ‘the naked dress’ at the 1974 Met Gala. The pair were unstoppable!
His celebrity clientele only expanded from here, reaching the likes of Tina Turner, Elton John, Dolly Parton, and Diana Ross. Everyone wanted to be imagined by Mackie. He had become one of the defining visual forces in American entertainment.
The Mackie Image
Mackie is, of course, renowned for glitz, glamour, and feathers. People drooled over his exaggerated silhouettes and rhinestone designs, but more importantly, a big part of his image was his understanding that clothing has the ability to shape a performer's identity and create an image that audiences would remember.
Mackie understood this long before he was established as a designer, when he sketched Marilyn Monroe's now-iconic, crystal-covered gown. The dress became inseparable from the moment she sang "Happy Birthday" to JFK in 1962, and she later became recognised globally. Through his career, he continued to create an array of identities, including comical ones like Carol Burnett, for whom he designed a curtain rod dress. He stretched so much further than making his clients look beautiful. He was a genius at creating character, and that's what people loved.
Mackie's work has previously graced the Met Gala carpet with Cher. In 1974, we saw “the naked dress,” crafted with nude souffle fabric, ostrich feathers, and rhinestones. A true wow moment. Mackie challenged the conventions of red-carpet dressing with this dress, using sheer fabric, feathers, and rhinestones to turn Cher into something closer to a spectacle. It caused immense waves due to its exposing style for the theme “Romantic and Glamorous.”
The Met Gala has become synonymous with unforgettable fashion images, and that’s what Bob Mackie understood better than most. He developed identities for multiple Hollywood stars. Whether humorous or glamorous, they are all identities that remain recognisable today. His legacy and cultural influence are more than worthy of honouring.
Roach’s suggestion may have sounded spontaneous, but looking back on Bob Mackie's life, it's easy to understand why the idea has such weight. Bob Mackie already has his place in Met Gala history, and few designers understood the power of fashion image quite like him. With the 2027 Costume Institute exhibition still to be announced, the timing is certainly intriguing. Perhaps Roach’s suggestion is more than just a coincidence.