One of the greatest runway explorations into Catholic visuals was Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2007 Couture show 'Les Vierges'. Serving as an ode to the divine, Gaultier injected grandiosity, reclamation, and quiet provocation into ethereal theatrics.

Beneath the soft Madonna-blue lighting – a sacred hue – weeping models descended from a glowing white upper level reminiscent of the heavens. The first act commenced with a parade of relative modesty, as delicately gilded perspex halos and coloured eye makeup punctuated the understated attire. Gentle juxtaposition lingered as hooded dresses paid homage to conservatism and monasticism.

Embellished with faux-tears and a crown of red roses, the arrival of Dita Von Teese signalled a shift into opulence – a decadent dive into Catholic maximalism commenced. There is a stark parallel between this ensemble and the concept of the Virgin Mary. Red, a symbol of martyrdom, the grasping of a handkerchief, and a minaudière containing the Sacred Heart, all allude to the death of Jesus Christ, as mourned by his mother.

Carved in gold and garnished with jewels, Gaultier's women existed as romantic relics. Provocation surfaced through vanity, as increasingly elaborate creations translated religion into exaggerated theatre, with Catholic art intensified into performance.

Ephemerality filled the air as the weeping saints evolved into elusive goddesses weighed down by treasure-laden headpieces. Contemporary elements emerged in the form of teal-tinted sunglasses and daring cut-outs. Reminiscent of the Catholic prayer rope, twisted belts formed remarkable waist detailing.

Drenched in iconography, stained-glass cemented the religious narrative. Glamour burst onto the runway with flapper-esque makeup and showgirl-leaning headdresses – a cultural convergence. Liturgical souvenirs continued to materialise as the models transformed into lustrous statues complete with Immaculate Heart motifs, traditional lace, Byzantine art, and altar cloth-inspired material. The presence of three teardrops under each eye was a clear tribute to the Holy Trinity.

Burdened with notes of female anguish, Jean Paul Gaultier's devotional deep dive focused on ethereality, despite hints of haunting restraint. In a silent commentary, fragments of martyrdom were fused with modern visuals to construct a stimulating rendition of religious mysticism. Few collections have since dared to look religion so directly in the eye.